Nangang Mountain Range_Gengliao Ancient Trail Introduction
The Gengliao Ancient Trail and Qingshan Trail is one of the five ancient trails from Nangang to Shenkeng and Shiding, which has been preserved the best and is still in use. This trail not only serves as a convenient path to reach Shanzhuku and Tukuyue but also leads to the century-old ruins of ancient houses. Nowadays, granite stone steps have been laid along the trail; however, the narrow starting and ending sections still reflect the primitive ruggedness of the past. Parts of the unsurfaced gravel path are adorned with small white flowers known as "Rihchiang," adding to the rustic charm of the trail. The latter part of the Gengliao Ancient Trail connects with the Laoliao Ancient Trail, which was once a tea-growing area filled with tea shops. This ancient trail, used for transporting and producing camphor, was originally called the Laoliao Ancient Trail. About 110 years ago, it became the most frequented road for tea merchants and villagers, and it was later renamed Gengliao due to its phonetic resemblance. The name change to Gengliao Ancient Trail is derived from its use as a patrol road by night watchmen during the Qing Dynasty. Once a bustling thoroughfare for early settlers, it has now faded from prominence and become a hiking path for nature lovers. Chuan-Hsuan Farm, originally known as Nangang Civilian Farm, has transformed into a comprehensive farm that combines education and leisure activities. The farm grows over a thousand Chinese toon trees, daylilies, and osmanthus trees, and features treehouses and viewing platforms for visitors to enjoy the scenery. Wanggaoliao, located at the highest point of Tukuyue, offers a panoramic view of Greater Taipei. It served as a military fortification and, according to legend, had a lookout tower manned by armed night watchmen during the Qing Dynasty. The current lookout platform provides even better vistas and truly lives up to its name. Along the Gengliao Path, one can often see the bustling traffic of National Highway No. 5. In addition, there are several century-old houses among the hills, such as the "Pan's Ancestor House," which has a history of 160 years. This site serves as a testament to the development efforts of the early settlers, with bullet holes remaining from its time as a defensive post. The descendants of the Pan family have lived here for eight generations, making them witnesses to this history. Exploring the past is a unique experience as the five ancient trails from Nangang to Shenkeng and Shiding have left only the Gengliao Ancient Trail in a well-preserved and actively used state. It is not only a convenient path to Shanzhuku or to ascend Tukuyue but also holds numerous "ancient treasures." Even though granite stone steps have been laid along the route, the narrow stone staircase at the beginning can only accommodate one person, providing a sense of antiquity. As you ascend to the hillside behind the pavilion, you will find the 70-year-old stone house "Huang Wang's Former Residence," which still retains old tea-making machinery. As you approach the uphill path, the weeds alongside may give the impression of having strayed off the main route, but soon you'll find yourself on a gravel path that crunches underfoot, flanked by small flowers reminiscent of Rihchiang. The short 300-meter stretch is easy to walk but remains a delightful memory. The starting point of the Gengliao Trail leads to a century-old house known as "Pan's Gun Hole House," which is currently the only one in Nangang that still retains gun holes and is occupied. The Pan descendants have lived here for eight generations, which suggests the house is at least 160 years old, remaining "evergreen" like the ancient trail itself. On the way to the Laoliao Ancient Trail, you will encounter lime caves, remnants of early settlements. The ruins of Wei Jing-shih's former residence, despite being dilapidated, evoke the grandeur of past tea mountain glory. The trail features earthen houses, the Zheng family's cemetery, and a "mini" Tudi Gong (Earth God) temple only 30 centimeters high, all validating the century-long history of the trail. The history of tea development in this area can be traced back more than 200 years to the Qing Dynasty. Back then, it was an important production area for camphor and tea exports in early Taiwan. The cultivation methods for "Wenshan Paochong Tea," developed by Wang Shuijin, and "Nangang Paochong Tea," developed by Wei Jing-shih, marked the golden era of Nangang tea, renowned even in Southeast Asia, with some old tea shops in Thailand still attracting customers by using the Nangang name. 110 years ago, the Laoliao Ancient Trail served as a bustling tea path for merchants and villagers, tracing back to when it was used for harvesting camphor and transporting goods. Its old name refers to this history. The name Gengliao Ancient Trail is derived from its function as a patrol road during the Qing Dynasty, which later transitioned to a transportation route for tea sales back and forth between Shenkeng and Nangang during the Japanese occupation. Though it has shed its former glory, it has become a scenic hiking trail for everyone today. After walking for about five to six minutes along the narrow stone staircase at the trail entrance, look to the right to see the Beiyi Expressway tunnel passing through the mountains. This highway crosses through Tukuyue, Shanzhuku, and beneath the Gengliao Ancient Trail towards Shiding and Pinglin. Taking a moment to pause here while enjoying today's traffic flow from what was once a communication route is quite interesting. On sunny days, while on the way to Shanzhuku, you can look back from the stone steps to see the Grand Hotel, Songshan Airport, Dazhi, and Neihu incinerator, taking in the entire Taipei basin view. As you ascend towards the summit, the scenery becomes increasingly rich, with the complete forest landscape and plant ecology close at hand. Just before reaching the summit, there is a rare grove of bamboo trees resembling a tropical rainforest, and the gentle sound of mountain streams washes away the fatigue from the steep slopes.
