Nangang Mountain Range - Gengliao Ancient Trail

Taipei Attractions

更寮古道_石階_高讚賢攝
更寮古道_石階_高讚賢攝

Nangang Mountain Range - Gengliao Ancient Trail Introduction

The Gengliao Ancient Trail is the best-preserved and still-in-use trail among the five ancient paths connecting Nangang to ShenKeng and Shiding in the early years. This trail is not only a convenient path to Shanzhuku and Tukuyue but also a century-old road for exploring ancient house ruins. Today, the trail is lined with granite steps; however, the narrow conditions at both ends still reveal the original ruggedness of the path. Parts of the unpaved segments are adorned with small white flowers of daylilies, enhancing the rustic charm of the path. The latter section of the Gengliao Ancient Trail connects with the Laoliao Ancient Trail, which was once a tea-producing area lined with tea shops. The ancient path, formerly a route for transporting and manufacturing camphor, was originally called the Naoliao Ancient Trail; about 110 years ago, it became the main road frequented by tea merchants and villagers, later renamed Gengliao due to the phonetic similarity. The renaming to Gengliao Ancient Trail also reflects its use as a patrol route during the Qing Dynasty. This once-glorious trail has now faded from prominence, becoming a hiking path for nature lovers. Chun-Hsuan Farm, originally known as Nangang First Civic Farm, has transformed into a comprehensive farm with both educational and recreational functions. The farm cultivates over a thousand Chinese toon trees, daylilies, and osmanthus trees, and features treehouses and observation decks for visitors to enjoy the scenery. Wang Gao Liao, located at the highest point of Tukuyue, offers a view of Greater Taipei and serves a military fortification function. Legend has it that during the Qing Dynasty, there was a lookout tower manned by armed patrols here. The current platform provides an even better and wider view, truly deserving its name of Wang Gao Liao. Along the Gengliao Trail, one can frequently see traffic on National Highway 5, as well as several century-old houses like the "Pan Family Ancestral Home," which boasts a history of 160 years. This ancient residence, which contains traces of gun ports from the era when it served as a defense outpost, has witnessed eight generations of the Pan family and stands as a testimony to this history. The ancient charm of the road is preserved along this journey, where echoes of history are encountered at every turn. Within the hills, remnants of historical artifacts can also be seen, such as the lime mine opening left by early settlers. The site of Wei Jing Shi's former residence, despite its dilapidated state, evokes reflections of the past prosperity of the tea mountain. The path leading along features traditional earthen houses, the Zheng family cemetery, and the "miniature" land deity temple standing just 30 cm tall, all of which provide evidence of the trail's century-long history. The development history of the tea mountains can be traced back over 200 years to the Qing Dynasty, where this area was once a major exporter of camphor and tea. The tea manufacturing methods developed by Wang Shui-jin and Wei Jing Shi for "Wenshan Pouchong Tea" and "Nangang Pouchong Tea" marked the golden age of Nangang tea, which became widely known, reaching as far as Southeast Asia. Even today, old tea shops in Thailand still use the name Nangang to attract customers. The Gengliao Ancient Trail, once a bustling path for tea merchants and villagers, can be retraced back to its origins as a route for camphor collection and production, where it was originally called "Naoliao Ancient Trail." The name "Gengliao" comes from its use as a route for patrols during the Qing Dynasty. During the Japanese occupation, it became a transport route for tea traders traveling back and forth between ShenKeng and Nangang, and now it serves as a hiking path for exploration. At the entrance of the trail, after about five or six minutes walking on the narrow stone steps, looking to the right reveals the Beiyi Expressway cutting through the foothills, traversing underneath Tukuyue, Shanzhuku, and the Gengliao Ancient Trail towards Shiding and Pinglin. Taking a moment to pause here allows one to appreciate the current traffic flow along this ancient communication route, which is quite intriguing. On clear days, on the way to Shanzhuku, standing on the stone steps looking back offers a view of the Yuanshan Hotel, Songshan Airport, Dazhi, the Neihu Incinerator, and Guanyin Mountain, all capturing the beauty of the Taipei Basin. As one ascends toward the summit, the scenery becomes richer, with the lush mountain forest and plant ecology close by. Just before reaching the peak, there is a rare grove of pencil trees resembling a tropical rainforest, with the sound of flowing mountain streams washing away the fatigue from the steep climb.

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