Nankang Mountain Range - Gengliao Old Trail Qingshan Path Introduction
Gengliao Ancient Trail is the most well-preserved and still-in-use ancient path among the five historical trails that once connected Nangang with Shenkeng and Shiding in earlier years. This trail is not only a convenient route to reach Shanzhuku and Tuku Mountain but also a centennial path for exploring the remains of ancient houses. Today, granite steps have been laid along the old path, but the narrow starting and ending sections still present the raw and rugged feel of antiquity, with unpaved rocky segments adorned with little white "日日春" flowers, further enhancing the rustic charm of the path. The latter section of Gengliao Ancient Trail connects with Laoliao Ancient Trail and is located in a tea mountain area that was once bustling with tea houses. The old path used to be a transportation route for the production of camphor, hence it was originally named "Naoliao Ancient Trail." About 110 years ago, it became the busiest road for tea merchants and villagers, later adopting the homophonic name "Gengliao." The name change to Gengliao Ancient Trail came during the Qing Dynasty when the road was used for patrols by watchmen. This once-glorious route of early settlers has now faded, becoming a trek route for nature lovers. Chuan-Hsuan Farm, originally known as the first civic farm of Nangang, has transformed into a comprehensive farm integrated with educational and recreational functions, planting over a thousand tune trees, daylilies, and osmanthus trees, and also featuring treehouses and observation decks for public enjoyment. Wanggao Liao, located at the highest point of Tuku Mountain, offers a view of the greater Taipei area and has served as a military fortress in the past. It is said that during the Qing Dynasty, there was a watchtower here manned by armed guards. The presently constructed platform offers an even better and wider view, truly deserving to be named Wanggao Liao. Along the Gengliao Ancestor House trail, one can frequently see the busy traffic of National Highway No. 5, and there are several century-old houses at the hillside, including the "Pan’s Ancestral House," which has a history of 160 years. It is a testament to the heritage developed by the ancestors, with bullet holes still visible from when it was used for defense. The descendants of the Pan family, who have lived in this ancient house, have counted eight generations, becoming witnesses to this history. Now, only Gengliao Ancient Trail remains as the most complete and still in use among the five trails from Nangang to Shenkeng and Shiding. It not only serves as the essential route to Shanzhuku or Tuku Mountain but is rich with "antique treasures." Even though granite steps have been laid along the path, the narrow stone steps at the starting point only accommodate one person, invoking a sense of nostalgia. Climbing to the hillside, behind a pavilion, one can find the 70-year-old stone house "Huang Wang's Former Residence," which still retains old tea-making machinery; nearing the steep uphill section, weeds lining the path may lead one to think they have taken a wrong turn. Still, stepping onto the crunchy gravel road beside blooming little "日日春" flowers on both sides, this short 300-meter stretch is easy to walk yet leaves lasting memories. The starting point of Gengliao Trail leads to a century-old house named "Pan's House with Bullet Holes," which is the only house in Nangang that still retains bullet holes and is occupied. The Pan family, with eight generations living in this house, suggests that its age is at least 160 years, yet similar to the ancient trail, it remains "evergreen." On the way to Laoliao Ancient Trail, the lime mining cave is a relic of past development by the ancestors. The remains of Wei Jing-shi's former residence, although in ruins, evoke memories of the once prosperous tea mountain. The earthen houses along the trail, Zheng’s cemetery, and a "mini" Land God temple only 30 centimeters high, all attest to the history of the ancient trail spanning a century. The history of tea mountain development can be traced back over 200 years to the Qing Dynasty. This area was an important production site for early camphor and tea exports in Taiwan. Wang Shui-jin and Wei Jing-shi developed the manufacturing methods for "Wenshan Baozhong Tea" and "Nangang Baozhong Tea," creating the golden age of Nangang tea, which became famous and even reached Southeast Asia, with Thai tea shops still using the Nangang name to attract customers. 110 years ago, Laoliao Ancient Trail served as a bustling route for tea merchants and villagers, tracing back to its earlier use for harvesting camphor and camphor production, with its old name naturally being "Naoliao Ancient Trail." The name "Laoliao" was later changed based on homophonic similarity; Gengliao Ancient Trail got its name because it was used as a patrol road during the Qing Dynasty. In the Japanese occupation era, it became a transportation route for tea merchants to travel back and forth between Shenkeng and Nangang. Now, having lost its former glory, it has become a popular trek route for nature enthusiasts. Gengliao Printing Pavilion is now a narrow stone step path at the trail entrance; after a five or six-minute walk, looking to the right, you can see the Suhua Highway passing through the foothills. This road cuts through Tuku Mountain, Shanzhuku, and below Gengliao Ancient Trail, heading towards Shiding and Pinglin. Stopping here, one can enjoy the transportation passing by from this old route, which is quite interesting. On clear days, on the way to Shanzhuku, standing on the stone steps to look back, one can see the Grand Hotel, Songshan Airport, Dazhi, the Neihu incinerator, and Guanyin Mountain, providing a stunning view of the Taipei basin. As the elevation increases towards the mountain top, the scenery becomes richer, with the complete forest landscape and plant ecology close at hand. Just before reaching the summit, there is a rare grove of needle bamboo trees resembling a tropical rainforest, and the sound of flowing water from the mountain stream washes away the fatigue from the steep trek.
